This results in a grand total investment of $1,226. 

Our utility bills have been paid through the end of  October and our year to date savings has climbed to $795.83.

Progress: as of end of November 2009 vs 2007

• Electricity – 67.0%
• Natural Gas – 76.9%
• Water – 83.5%
• Utility Costs – 73.7%
• Savings 2008 – $200.15
• Savings 2009 – $795.83
• Total Savings – $995.98

Good preparation is the first step to success with most projects and it is true here too. The first thing that you want to do is to measure your windows so that you know what type of window film packages to buy. If you have typically sized windows, 3’ wide by 5’ tall, you will want to buy packages with individually sized sheets. However, if you have a number of smaller windows or at least one large picture window you will want to buy packages with single large sheets. Large sheets can be cut to size to fit a variety of window sizes big and small so that you can minimize the waste.

Before you install the window film, you may want to weatherize your windows by fixing the glazing putty and by adding weatherstripping, or even adding storm windows if you don’t already have them.

Next, you will want to clean your windows inside and out including the sill and the trim. This will allow as much sunshine to come in and create a clean surface for the window film tape to stick to.

Now it’s time to start installing the window film. The first step is to determine where to install the tape. Installing the tape on the outside face of the window trim results in a more secure installation, but many times window treatments interfere with this. The second best location is on the face of the trim, and the least secure location is on a surface perpendicular to the face of the glass, like the sill. When you install the tape, make sure to overlap the tape at the corners by about an inch. Before you remove the paper off of the double sided tape you should take a smooth, hard surface and run it over the tape to fully secure it to the trim.

If your window has a sill, install the window film to the there first. Wrapping the end of the sheet around a yardstick will help to install the film at the sill evenly.

Before securing the film to the top and the sides of the window, add a strip of clear packing tape to the back side of the film and the sill. This will help to keep the film from pulling away from the sill.

Next secure the film to the center of the top of the window and then work your way up both sides of the window pulling the film tight.

If the window doesn’t have a sill and has “picture frame” trim, then secure the film at the middle of the top and bottom of the window first, then to the middle of the sides. Next, work your way toward the corners bit by bit, first on one side then another, pulling the film tight as you go.

Once the window film is secure, trim the excess film from around the edges.

Finally, use a blow dryer to smooth out the film. For windows that won’t be covered up by shades or curtains for the winter, you will want to make as smooth as possible. Don’t over do it with the blow dryer though, you can pull the tape right off of the trim if you are not careful.

Now that you are done, you can sit back and enjoy a draft free home and some extra money in your pocket every month.

Dan Bossenbroek

Windows:  We have several types of windows in our house.  The original house still has wooden single pane, double hung windows with storm windows.  All of these windows have received need some much needed attention this fall: the cracked and missing glazing putty has been replaced, and the sashes that rattle as they open and close have had weatherstripping added to help seal the gaps and smoothen out their operation.  Next the cracked, peeling and alligatored paint will need to be scraped off and the windows repainted. Finally, when the wind blows the sashes in the storm windows bend a little and let it right in.  The 1970’s addition was built with wooden double hung windows with insulated glass, one of which has cracked glass and the others readily leak air.  Some of the windows in the addition and one in the original house were replaced with vinyl double hung and slider windows with insulated glass.  The vinyl windows are the best in the house, but last year we covered them with insulating window film too and it made a big difference.  The windows in the basement are the worst of all: single pane glass, some cracked and others loose in their frames.

Doors:  There are only two doors into the house.  The front door is a six panel solid wood door with a storm door.  We installed new weatherstripping and a new sweep to the wood door two years ago.  The back door is a steel door with glass on the upper half and a storm door.  Both back door and storm door have new weatherstripping and the glass in the storm door has been sealed with weatherstripping and rope caulk.  We made these improvements at the same time as the ones we made to the front doors. 

Change in Materials:  The joint between the brick of the existing house and the aluminum siding of the addition needs to be re-caulked.  Likewise, the joint between the concrete foundation and concrete driveway may be the source of small water leaks into the basement and should be sealed too.  The joints between the eave trim and the brick is tight and in great shape and so is the joint between the aluminum siding and the block foundation. 

Switches and Outlets:  There are very few switches or outlets on the exterior walls, the outlets and switches in the exterior walls of the original house are surface mounted to the wall and do not need to be sealed.  Those in the addition need to be sealed.

Pipes, Vents, Fixtures and Wires:  There are a number of penetrations through the exterior wall: range hood vent, phone line, electrical, cable TV, condensing unit line set, dryer vent, furnace flue, and three hose bibs.  Most of these penetrations seem to be sealed properly, however there are a few, like the outlet and light fixture by the back door that need some attention.

Attic Ceilings:  Every room on the second floor has a ceiling mounted light fixture with a junction box that penetrates the ceiling.  One bathroom has an exhaust fan that pokes up into the attic too.  The original house has an attic access panel in one of the closets the is in dire need of being sealed and insulated properly.  The access panel in the addition has two inches of rigid insulation secured to it’s back and is weatherstripped adequately on all four sides.  It could also benefit from an attic stair cover some day.

Fireplaces:  The fireplace is decorative, so there is no flue to seal.

After completing this survey it’s apparent that there are a number of weatherizing projects that I need to complete: fixing the glazing putty in the original windows, and adding weatherstripping to the original windows this fall was a good start.  Next on the list are to seal the joint between the foundation and the driveway, seal the joints between the brick and the aluminum siding, install switch and outlet sealers, seal the penetrations through the second floor ceiling, seal and insulate the original attic access panel, add insulation to the newer attic access panel, and seal around some of the penetrations through the building envelope.

Dan Bossenbroek

There are four locations where the air leaks in: between the sash and the jamb, between the bottom of the sash and the sill, between the top of the sash and the window head, and where the two sashes meet.

The best type of weatherstripping to seal the space between the sash and the jamb is a V-Shaped Polypropylene weatherstripping. It is sold under various names: Vflex, V-shaped Fin, V-Seal among others. This type of weatherstripping is secured to the jamb with a self adhesive strip and then the other half of the V presses against sash. The polypropylene is smooth, thin and durable enough for the sash to slide easily open and closed.

First measure the height of the sash and add 2” to this when cutting the weatherstripping to length.

Tape the end of the “V” shut with a small roll of scotch tape, open the window all of the way and insert the tapes end up between the sash and the jamb with the closed end of the V facing toward the exterior.

Peel the paper off of the weatherstripping and secure it to the jamb.

Make sure that the paper is on the inside of the window so that you can close the window and pull the paper off the rest of the weatherstripping. Repeat this step on the opposite jamb.

If the upper sash isn’t painted shut or otherwise fixed in place, and you want it to continue to be operable, then you will want to install “V” weatherstripping along its jambs too.

The gap between the two sashes can be sealed in a similar manner. However, this time you should cut the weatherstripping a inch or two short so that it won’t get caught up at the jambs. Open the bottom sash a little and install the weatherstripping on the outside of the top of the lower sash with the closed end of the “V” pointing down. You may need to use a putty knife to push the weatherstripping down between the two sashes.

Sealing the space between the sash and the sill can be easily done with a strip of compressible foam tape. One thing to be sure of here is to clean the bottom of the sash before you apply the foam tape. Repeat this step for the space between the top of the top sash and the window head.

If the upper sash does not work any more you can seal the perimeter of the sash with a small bead of caulk or removable weathersealant.

Take a couple hours to weatherize your old windows and keep those cold winter drafts out for good. This small step will make your house more comfortable, cleaner, quieter and save you much, much more than you have invested.

Dan Bossenbroek