The downside to storm windows is that they make your double hung windows much less effective in the summer time.  By raising the lower sashes on the cooler side of the house and lowering the upper sashes on the warm side of the house, the warm air in the house will exit through the open upper sashes and draw cooler air in through the open lower sashes.

You can remove the counterweights for the upper sashes and insulate the concealed spaces in the walls.

First, secure the upper sash in place by driving a screw diagonally up through the bottom of the sash and into the jamb.  You may not need to do this since many old sashes have already been painted in place.

Next, carefully remove the casing around the window.  Run a utility knife around the perimeter between the casing and the wall in order to cut any paint or caulk that might be connecting the casing to the wall.  Insert putty knives in between the casing and the wall and between the casing and the window jamb in order to begin to remove the casing.  Continue this process with a pry bar, being careful not to damage the wall.  This will expose the counterweight pockets next to the window.

After removing the casing, cut the cords for the counterweights for the upper sash and remove the counterweights.  A great way to remove the nails from the casing without causing any damage is to clamp on to the nail on the back side of the casing with a vice grips.  Pry the nail out a little.  Straighten the nail and re-clamp the vice grips tight to the wood.  Repeat this until the nail comes all of the way out of the back.  This process will not mar the finish on the good side of the casing.

There are a couple of ways to insulate the counterweight spaces.

1. Measure the width and height of the pocket.  Cut rigid polyisocyanurate insulation to fit snugly into the pocket.  Polyiso has one of the highest R-values available.  Install two layers of ¾” insulation and push tight to the outside of the pocket.
2. Get some PVC that has an inside diameter at least ½” larger than the diameter of the counter weight.  Cut it to length – 1” less than the distance from the bottom of the pocket to the pulley.  Insert the counterweight into the pipe.  Secure the pipe to the window jamb.  Stuff batt insulation into the remaining space in the pocket.

Replace the casing.  Drill pilot holes for the finish nails to help prevent splitting the wood.  Set the nails and fill the divots with wood putty.  Lightly sand smooth, and finish to match the rest of the trim.

Tools:  Drill, drill bits, screwdriver bit, putty knives, pry-bar, hammer, scissors, vice grips, utility knife, tape measure, finish nails, sandpaper and nail set.

Materials:  2” screws, wood putty, and rigid insulation or batt insulation & PVC pipe.

Dan Bossenbroek

  Shop light conversion: $36

This results in a grand total investment of $1,262. 

Our utility bills have been paid through the end of 2009 and our total annual savings has climbed to $912.18

Progress: as of end of  2009 vs 2007

• Electricity – 67.7%
• Natural Gas – 80.5%
• Water – 83.0%
• Utility Costs – 75.3%
• Savings 2008 – $  200.15
• Savings 2009 – $  912.18
• Total Savings – $1112.33

What this means is that we are about half way to cutting our utility costs by 50% and we have already recovered 88% of what we have invested so far.  Furthermore, we have only invested about 15% of what we will save over five years once we cut our utility costs by 50%.   Our plan for 2010 is to invest another $900 or so, and increase our savings to $1,150 or more for the year.

So far some of the projects that we are considering are:

• Insulate the Crawlspace – $100   Actual Cost
• Insulate the Living Room – $450  Estimate
• Install a Dual Flush Conversion Kit – $55  Estimate
• Complete Weatherizing Walls and Windows – $45  Estimate
• Two DIY Rain Barrels with Soaker Hoses – $80  Estimate

Stay tuned, more updates coming soon!

Dan Bossenbroek

1.       Turn off the lights when you leave a room.

2.       Install a motion / occupancy sensor in a room that you go in and out of frequently at night.

3.       Switch to LED night lights, they use a fraction of the energy that standard night lights do.

4.       Unplug your alarm clock and keep your cell phone next to your bed at night.

5.       Turn off the, lights and go to bed early, nudge, nudge, wink, wink.

6.       Turn off the TV and read a book instead.

7.       Use a clothes dryer heat saver in the winter.

8.       Line dry your laundry.

9.       Plug all of your electronics: TV, VCR, DVD, stereo, computer, printer, cable router, network router into a power strip and turn the power strip off at night.

10.    Replace incandescent bulbs with CFL’s (compact fluorescent lamps.)

11.     Turn down your thermostat in the winter.

12.     Turn up your thermostat in the summer.

13.     Clean the condensing coil of your refrigerator.

14.     Buy an Energy Star refrigerator.

15.     Use a laptop instead of a desktop computer.

16.     Turn off your computer when you are not using it.

17.     Turn off your printer except when you are using it.

18.     Turn off your monitor too.

19.     Same goes for your speakers.

20.     Buy a new computer since they use a lot less electricity than older ones.

21.     Same goes for flat screen monitors vs. CRT monitors.

22.     Upgrade to Windows Vista or 7, they have a “Sleep” function.  Oh, yeah – Use it.

23.     Allow food to cool to room temperature before you put them in the refrigerator.

24.     Keep a pitcher of your favorite beverage in the refrigerator instead of using ice.  It takes more energy to freeze water than to just keep it cool.

25.     Insulate your attic and walls to the proper level.

26.     Insulate the extra refrigerator or freezer in your garage or basement.

27.     Crank the thermostat down another 2 to 4 degrees at night and turn on an electric blanket.  Turn it on just long enough to warm up your bed or at least keep it on the low setting.

28.     Move your kids into one bedroom in the winter and close off the registers in the empty ones.

29.     Let your furry friends sleep on your bed in the winter.  They can sure help to keep you nice and toasty warm.

30.     Get rid of grandma’s refrigerator or freezer that you have in the basement or garage.

31.     Install a programmable thermostat – lower heating bills = lower electrical bills.

32.     Buy and use a space heater or two and heat up only rooms that you use while keeping the rest of the house at a lower temperature.

33.     Bundle up and turn down the thermostat.

34.     Snuggle under a blanket with a friend while you watch TV.

35.     Use timers to turn lights on and off when you are not at home.

36.     Use task lighting instead of lighting up the entire room.

37.     Watch your favorite programs on your laptop instead of the TV.

38.     Go solar to heat your water.

39.     Listen to your MP3 player instead of cranking up the stereo.

40.     Use window fans on cool nights instead of your air conditioner.

41.     When you remodel, avoid carpeting, you can vacuum less often with hard floors.

42.     Replace your air conditioner with one that is Energy Star rated.

43.     Move to a smaller house or apartment.

44.     Seal up your windows with insulating window film.

45.     Install a radiant barrier in your attic.

46.     Replace furnace filters when needed, this will help your furnace run more efficiently.

47.     Upgrade your furnace with one with a higher efficiency.

48.     Eat it raw or cold: veggies, bread (instead of toast), sandwiches (cheese vs. grilled cheese), and milk for example.

49.     Cook with a sun oven.

50.     Dine by candle light.

51.     Get a four poster bed and hang blankets over the top and sides – then you can turn the thermostat down even more at night.

52.     Weatherize your house, seal all of those cracks, gaps and holes

53.      Customize your refrigerator and wrap it with 1 ½” of rigid insulation and any number of finishes: painted or stained wood veneer, chalk board, galvanized steel, vinyl tile, or cork tile.

54.     Teach your kids not to stand with the refrigerator door open.

55.     Practice what you preach.

56.     Wash your hands in cold water.

57.     Install energy saving heat reflective film on all your windows.

58.     Move your refrigerator to an unheated porch, garage or breezeway in the cooler months.

59.     Use an unheated vestibule, garage or enclosed porch to enter and exit your house.  This will prevent cold blasts of air from invading your house every time you go in or out.

60.     Add a dog door in above mentioned vestibule, this too will reduce the cold blasts.

61.     Install solar powered lights at your patio, deck and/or garden.

62.     Open up the curtains in the winter and on the north side of your house to let the sun in.

63.     Install a solar tube type skylight and turn off the lights in that room even at night.

64.     Set solar powered lanterns outside during the day and bring them inside at night for a taste of living off the grid.

65.     Install LED lamps in your recessed cans.  They use even less energy than CFL’s.

66.     Don’t leave the television on for your dog during the day.  Let them read the paper if they need to catch up on the news.

67.     Install a whole house fan and use it instead of your air conditioner.

68.     Use an antique sewing machine with a foot pedal.

69.     Plug power strips into timers so you don’t need to remember to turn them off.

70.     Can the jam, instead of freezing it.  This goes for the extra produce from your garden too.

71.     Generate your own electricity with a wind turbine.

72.     Install a solar air heater, or two.

73.     Install SolarChoice Blinds: a passive solar heater in the guise of vertical blinds.

74.     Buy an Energy Star front loading washing machine.

75.     Wear your clothes more than once between washes.

76.     Only do full loads of laundry.

77.     Wash your clothes in cold water, or at least warm instead of hot.

78.     Fill up your dishwasher before you run it.

79.     Use the energy saver setting on your dishwasher.

80.     Switch to an Energy Star dishwasher.

81.     Use a small plate instead of a large one whenever possible, to cut down on dishwasher loads.

82.     Use one glass all day for your drinking water and it will take longer to fill up your dishwasher.

83.     Try to use only one plate or bowl per person for each meal, this will lead to fewer dishwasher loads.

84.     Serve food in the pots that you cooked the food in and it will take longer to fill the dishwasher.

85.     Skip taking a shower once in a while.

86.      Install an instant hot water heater – hot water will be at the tap sooner.

87.     Insulate your hot water pipes.

88.      Skip shaving once in a while.

89.     Switch to low flow showerheads.

90.     Put the scraps from your plates in to a worm bin instead of down the disposal.

91.     Take shorter showers – keep them to five minutes or less.

92.     Plant a tree or more to shade your house.

93.     When you take a shower turn off the water while you lather and wash.

94.     Two young kids in the same tub = ten to twenty gallons of water saved.

95.     Get your kids involved and teach them to turn the lights off when they leave the room (for instance).

96.     Adjust your water softener so that it regenerates only as necessary.

97.     Lightly steam your vegetables instead of boiling them to death.

98.     Take tandem showers: as soon as one person is done the next hops in.

99.     Give your dog a bath in the water your kids just bathed in.

100.   Jump in the shower before the water gets warm and enjoy a refreshing start to your day.

101.   Trade your furnace in for a small fire breathing dragon.  This may be difficult as they are uncommonly rare.

Have fun and start saving (more)!

This results in a grand total investment of $1,226. 

Our utility bills have been paid through the end of  October and our year to date savings has climbed to $795.83.

Progress: as of end of November 2009 vs 2007

• Electricity – 67.0%
• Natural Gas – 76.9%
• Water – 83.5%
• Utility Costs – 73.7%
• Savings 2008 – $200.15
• Savings 2009 – $795.83
• Total Savings – $995.98

Good preparation is the first step to success with most projects and it is true here too. The first thing that you want to do is to measure your windows so that you know what type of window film packages to buy. If you have typically sized windows, 3’ wide by 5’ tall, you will want to buy packages with individually sized sheets. However, if you have a number of smaller windows or at least one large picture window you will want to buy packages with single large sheets. Large sheets can be cut to size to fit a variety of window sizes big and small so that you can minimize the waste.

Before you install the window film, you may want to weatherize your windows by fixing the glazing putty and by adding weatherstripping, or even adding storm windows if you don’t already have them.

Next, you will want to clean your windows inside and out including the sill and the trim. This will allow as much sunshine to come in and create a clean surface for the window film tape to stick to.

Now it’s time to start installing the window film. The first step is to determine where to install the tape. Installing the tape on the outside face of the window trim results in a more secure installation, but many times window treatments interfere with this. The second best location is on the face of the trim, and the least secure location is on a surface perpendicular to the face of the glass, like the sill. When you install the tape, make sure to overlap the tape at the corners by about an inch. Before you remove the paper off of the double sided tape you should take a smooth, hard surface and run it over the tape to fully secure it to the trim.

If your window has a sill, install the window film to the there first. Wrapping the end of the sheet around a yardstick will help to install the film at the sill evenly.

Before securing the film to the top and the sides of the window, add a strip of clear packing tape to the back side of the film and the sill. This will help to keep the film from pulling away from the sill.

Next secure the film to the center of the top of the window and then work your way up both sides of the window pulling the film tight.

If the window doesn’t have a sill and has “picture frame” trim, then secure the film at the middle of the top and bottom of the window first, then to the middle of the sides. Next, work your way toward the corners bit by bit, first on one side then another, pulling the film tight as you go.

Once the window film is secure, trim the excess film from around the edges.

Finally, use a blow dryer to smooth out the film. For windows that won’t be covered up by shades or curtains for the winter, you will want to make as smooth as possible. Don’t over do it with the blow dryer though, you can pull the tape right off of the trim if you are not careful.

Now that you are done, you can sit back and enjoy a draft free home and some extra money in your pocket every month.

Dan Bossenbroek

Windows:  We have several types of windows in our house.  The original house still has wooden single pane, double hung windows with storm windows.  All of these windows have received need some much needed attention this fall: the cracked and missing glazing putty has been replaced, and the sashes that rattle as they open and close have had weatherstripping added to help seal the gaps and smoothen out their operation.  Next the cracked, peeling and alligatored paint will need to be scraped off and the windows repainted. Finally, when the wind blows the sashes in the storm windows bend a little and let it right in.  The 1970’s addition was built with wooden double hung windows with insulated glass, one of which has cracked glass and the others readily leak air.  Some of the windows in the addition and one in the original house were replaced with vinyl double hung and slider windows with insulated glass.  The vinyl windows are the best in the house, but last year we covered them with insulating window film too and it made a big difference.  The windows in the basement are the worst of all: single pane glass, some cracked and others loose in their frames.

Doors:  There are only two doors into the house.  The front door is a six panel solid wood door with a storm door.  We installed new weatherstripping and a new sweep to the wood door two years ago.  The back door is a steel door with glass on the upper half and a storm door.  Both back door and storm door have new weatherstripping and the glass in the storm door has been sealed with weatherstripping and rope caulk.  We made these improvements at the same time as the ones we made to the front doors. 

Change in Materials:  The joint between the brick of the existing house and the aluminum siding of the addition needs to be re-caulked.  Likewise, the joint between the concrete foundation and concrete driveway may be the source of small water leaks into the basement and should be sealed too.  The joints between the eave trim and the brick is tight and in great shape and so is the joint between the aluminum siding and the block foundation. 

Switches and Outlets:  There are very few switches or outlets on the exterior walls, the outlets and switches in the exterior walls of the original house are surface mounted to the wall and do not need to be sealed.  Those in the addition need to be sealed.

Pipes, Vents, Fixtures and Wires:  There are a number of penetrations through the exterior wall: range hood vent, phone line, electrical, cable TV, condensing unit line set, dryer vent, furnace flue, and three hose bibs.  Most of these penetrations seem to be sealed properly, however there are a few, like the outlet and light fixture by the back door that need some attention.

Attic Ceilings:  Every room on the second floor has a ceiling mounted light fixture with a junction box that penetrates the ceiling.  One bathroom has an exhaust fan that pokes up into the attic too.  The original house has an attic access panel in one of the closets the is in dire need of being sealed and insulated properly.  The access panel in the addition has two inches of rigid insulation secured to it’s back and is weatherstripped adequately on all four sides.  It could also benefit from an attic stair cover some day.

Fireplaces:  The fireplace is decorative, so there is no flue to seal.

After completing this survey it’s apparent that there are a number of weatherizing projects that I need to complete: fixing the glazing putty in the original windows, and adding weatherstripping to the original windows this fall was a good start.  Next on the list are to seal the joint between the foundation and the driveway, seal the joints between the brick and the aluminum siding, install switch and outlet sealers, seal the penetrations through the second floor ceiling, seal and insulate the original attic access panel, add insulation to the newer attic access panel, and seal around some of the penetrations through the building envelope.

Dan Bossenbroek

I have typically preferred open-cell foam insulation for it’s water based blowing agent and for the fact that it provides more insulation for the same amount of material as closed-cell insulation.  So I would continue to use open-cell insulation where space is not an issue such as attics and below floors.

But there will definitely now be times that closed-cell insulation will be my preference.

In situations where space is limited such as stud cavities, closed-cell insulation will provide almost twice as much insulation value as open-cell insulation will in the same space for just a small increase in cost.  Furthermore, closed-cell insulation is the best choice for below grade applications since it will not absorb any water.

Regardless of which type of foam insulation that you use, remember that foam insulation will also reduce air and water infiltration better than cellulose and fiberglass, significantly reduce outside noise, keep more duct and pollutants our of your house and is a great way to lower your energy bills.

Dan Bossenbroek

I thought to myself that if a little push of my finger can do this then a gust of wind could do the same. So I decided to do a little experiment and seal the joints between the sashes and the frame with removable sealant.  I only needed to seal the joints along the sides and top since the others didn’t gap when I pressed on them.

I figure that for the investment of about $0.50 in sealant and five minutes I’ll probably save a few dollars per window this heating season.  I suppose it’s not the most scientific experiment ever performed, I won’t be able to verify my energy savings from this one simple weatherization procedure, but it seemed to make a lot of sense to seal up the cracks that will open up when the cold wind blows.

Well, this my weatherization tip for today: take a look at your storm windows and make sure that they are performing to their full potential.

Dan Bossenbroek

There are four locations where the air leaks in: between the sash and the jamb, between the bottom of the sash and the sill, between the top of the sash and the window head, and where the two sashes meet.

The best type of weatherstripping to seal the space between the sash and the jamb is a V-Shaped Polypropylene weatherstripping. It is sold under various names: Vflex, V-shaped Fin, V-Seal among others. This type of weatherstripping is secured to the jamb with a self adhesive strip and then the other half of the V presses against sash. The polypropylene is smooth, thin and durable enough for the sash to slide easily open and closed.

First measure the height of the sash and add 2” to this when cutting the weatherstripping to length.

Tape the end of the “V” shut with a small roll of scotch tape, open the window all of the way and insert the tapes end up between the sash and the jamb with the closed end of the V facing toward the exterior.

Peel the paper off of the weatherstripping and secure it to the jamb.

Make sure that the paper is on the inside of the window so that you can close the window and pull the paper off the rest of the weatherstripping. Repeat this step on the opposite jamb.

If the upper sash isn’t painted shut or otherwise fixed in place, and you want it to continue to be operable, then you will want to install “V” weatherstripping along its jambs too.

The gap between the two sashes can be sealed in a similar manner. However, this time you should cut the weatherstripping a inch or two short so that it won’t get caught up at the jambs. Open the bottom sash a little and install the weatherstripping on the outside of the top of the lower sash with the closed end of the “V” pointing down. You may need to use a putty knife to push the weatherstripping down between the two sashes.

Sealing the space between the sash and the sill can be easily done with a strip of compressible foam tape. One thing to be sure of here is to clean the bottom of the sash before you apply the foam tape. Repeat this step for the space between the top of the top sash and the window head.

If the upper sash does not work any more you can seal the perimeter of the sash with a small bead of caulk or removable weathersealant.

Take a couple hours to weatherize your old windows and keep those cold winter drafts out for good. This small step will make your house more comfortable, cleaner, quieter and save you much, much more than you have invested.

Dan Bossenbroek