It has been amazing how much cleaner the house smells after we vacuum. It used to smell like dog for a few hours. Now it just smells clean.

We don’t seem to need to dust as much any more either. I guess our old vacuum did a better job of kicking up dust than it did sucking up dust.

It has also helped us save on our electric bills. We used to have several air purifiers running 24/7. But so far we have not needed them yet. I’m sure that spring allergy season may put this to the test.

What do we owe this change to? A Dyson DC14. Although I’m sure most any model will suffice.

Another bonus is that we will never have to buy vacuum cleaner bags ever again. Just empty the canister once in a while and rinse the filters with water a few times a year.

What a deal! A cleaner house, lower electric bills, better indoor air quality, no hum of air filters, and one less thing to remember at the grocery store.

Dan Bossenbroek

Relative Humidity is a term used to describe the amount of water vapor in air at a specific temperature compared to the maximum capacity of the air at that temperature.

The benefits of high (20 – 30%) relative humidity in the winter are that the air feels warmer and it doesn’t dry out your skin so fast.  In the summer, high relative humidity known commonly as just “humidity” is what makes a 90 degree day turn to a swealtering day.

The goals are to increase the realative humidity in your house in the winter without causing it to condense on the windows, while in the summer keeping it as low as possible.  This is one of the primary mechanisms that your air conditioner uses to make the air in your house feel cooler.

Not only will you capture the heat from your dryer that otherwise would be exhausted, but your furnace does not need to heat the cold winter air that would be pulled into your house to make up for the air that was exhausted.  So you save twice.

Installation is quick and simple, and only took about ten minutes.  Cut the dryer vent, insert the ends of the Heat Saver into the ends of the dryer vent and use the provided zip ties to secure the vent to the Heat Save.  You might consider using aluminum tape or sealant to fully seal the dryer vent to the Heat Saver.  Also, gas dryers must be vented to the outdoors, so this product should not be used for them.

If your windows begin to show condensation when you start using the Heat Saver, there are four possible solutions:

1. weatherize your windows – add storm windows, weatherstripping, and or window insulating film,
2. turn off or lower the setting on your humidifier,
3. do your laundry on more days of the week instead of just one or two,or
4. cut back on or discontinue using the Heat Saver.

For only ten bucks, this energy saving investment should pay for itself in no time.

Dan Bossenbroek

I have typically preferred open-cell foam insulation for it’s water based blowing agent and for the fact that it provides more insulation for the same amount of material as closed-cell insulation.  So I would continue to use open-cell insulation where space is not an issue such as attics and below floors.

But there will definitely now be times that closed-cell insulation will be my preference.

In situations where space is limited such as stud cavities, closed-cell insulation will provide almost twice as much insulation value as open-cell insulation will in the same space for just a small increase in cost.  Furthermore, closed-cell insulation is the best choice for below grade applications since it will not absorb any water.

Regardless of which type of foam insulation that you use, remember that foam insulation will also reduce air and water infiltration better than cellulose and fiberglass, significantly reduce outside noise, keep more duct and pollutants our of your house and is a great way to lower your energy bills.

Dan Bossenbroek

There are four locations where the air leaks in: between the sash and the jamb, between the bottom of the sash and the sill, between the top of the sash and the window head, and where the two sashes meet.

The best type of weatherstripping to seal the space between the sash and the jamb is a V-Shaped Polypropylene weatherstripping. It is sold under various names: Vflex, V-shaped Fin, V-Seal among others. This type of weatherstripping is secured to the jamb with a self adhesive strip and then the other half of the V presses against sash. The polypropylene is smooth, thin and durable enough for the sash to slide easily open and closed.

First measure the height of the sash and add 2” to this when cutting the weatherstripping to length.

Tape the end of the “V” shut with a small roll of scotch tape, open the window all of the way and insert the tapes end up between the sash and the jamb with the closed end of the V facing toward the exterior.

Peel the paper off of the weatherstripping and secure it to the jamb.

Make sure that the paper is on the inside of the window so that you can close the window and pull the paper off the rest of the weatherstripping. Repeat this step on the opposite jamb.

If the upper sash isn’t painted shut or otherwise fixed in place, and you want it to continue to be operable, then you will want to install “V” weatherstripping along its jambs too.

The gap between the two sashes can be sealed in a similar manner. However, this time you should cut the weatherstripping a inch or two short so that it won’t get caught up at the jambs. Open the bottom sash a little and install the weatherstripping on the outside of the top of the lower sash with the closed end of the “V” pointing down. You may need to use a putty knife to push the weatherstripping down between the two sashes.

Sealing the space between the sash and the sill can be easily done with a strip of compressible foam tape. One thing to be sure of here is to clean the bottom of the sash before you apply the foam tape. Repeat this step for the space between the top of the top sash and the window head.

If the upper sash does not work any more you can seal the perimeter of the sash with a small bead of caulk or removable weathersealant.

Take a couple hours to weatherize your old windows and keep those cold winter drafts out for good. This small step will make your house more comfortable, cleaner, quieter and save you much, much more than you have invested.

Dan Bossenbroek

The first step to seal big cracks or gaps is to clean out any loose material from the gap and any old caulk.  The sealant needs a solid material to attach to in order to make an effective seal.

Next, insert a backer rod or caulk saver.  Make sure that the caulk saver is appropriately sized – it should be 10% to 30% wider than the space you want it to fill.  Insert the caulk saver in the gap with the face set back from the face of the finished surface by about 1/3 the width of the gap and up to ¼” maximum.

If the cracks are extra wide or very irregular, you will want to use expanding foam insulation.  There are several types that come in a spray can.  Be careful, this stuff will stick to everything and is very difficult to get off. 

Before you spray the foam in the crack you may want to protect one or more of the adjacent surfaces with blue painter’s tape.  Once this is done, spray in the foam and allow it to cure for at least an hour.

It’s difficult to control how much this will foam up, so you will probably have to trim some off.  Use a brand new blade in your knife and it will cut much more cleanly.

Next you will want to make sure that both edges of the foam are below the face of the adjoining surface.  A putty knife will do the job. 

Finally, it is time to load up your caulk gun, cut off the tip of the tube and squeeze.   Latex caulk will work best in most exterior applications.  Make sure that the bead of caulk touches both sides of the joint.

At this point, you can leave the caulk joint just as it is.  However, if you plan to paint the caulk, if you want to make sure you have a good seal on both sides of the joint, or if you just want the joint to be nice and smooth wet your finger with on a wad of wet paper towels and smooth our the joint.  This can get a little messy, but the results are worth it!  Finally, wash up with soap and water and enjoy a warmer, dryer less leaky home.

Dan Bossenbroek

The air inside most buildings is more polluted than the air outside.  Controlling contaminants at their source in your house is a great first (or ten) step to improving your indoor air quality, your comfort and your health.  However, this will not eliminate all of the contaminants in your house.  There are some negative substances that are almost impossible to eliminate at their source: viruses, bacteria, pollen, dust mites, mold, carbon monoxide, just to name a few.  Some of these contaminants can lead to increased short term allergic type reactions and symptoms like irritated eyes, nose and throat, dizziness and fatigue.  These short term reactions are typically not serious health concerns, but some indoor air contaminants have been linked to long term and serious conditions such as respiratory disease, heart disease, and cancer.  It is difficult to pinpoint what level of exposure to these contaminants is potentially dangerous, and it also seems to vary from person to person.  These substances are created by every day activities like cooking, brining most any object into the house, visiting a sick friend, taking a shower, and running the furnace.

Therefore, additional efforts need to be made in order to provide the clean air that will promote healthy living:

1.      Open the windows:  Many times simply opening the widows will provide enough air movement to flush most of the lingering contaminants out of your house.

2.      Whole house fans: Using one of these is a great way to really flush any lingering unwanted gasses and some fine particulates out of your house

3.      Bathroom fans and stove hoods:  Some contaminants are byproducts of other positive and necessary activities.  The down-side of a warm shower is the excessive moisture that can sometimes be left behind and lead to mold and mildew.  Cooking on the stove can result in culinary masterpieces, but it can also result in carbon monoxide, lingering odors, smoke and other contaminants.  Using bathroom fans and stove hoods can quickly eliminate the excess moisture and other contaminants before they can spread throughout the house and become a problem.

4.      HEPA Filters: A HEPA filter for your furnace or air purifier will help to remove many small particles like dust, dust mite allergens, anthrax spores, mold spores, pet dander, and even some harmful gases and airborne asbestos from the air in your house.

5.      Carbon Filters:  Many air purifiers rely on carbon filters to eliminate smoke, fumes, and odors from your house.  Air is forced through a layer of activated granular charcoal which absorbs the odors and allows clean fresh air to pass through.

6.      UV Germicidal Light:  This ultraviolet light feature of many air purifiers neutralizes and eliminates many bacteria, mold spores, protozoa, yeasts and even some viruses.

7.      Ozone:  This naturally occurring unstable gas quickly oxidizes with the pollutants in the air moving through the air purifier and completely neutralizes them.  Many air purifiers use this chemical reaction to effectively eliminate bacteria, fungus and odors from the air.

8.      Ionize:  Air purifiers with ionizers create negatively charged ions which attract small airborne particles such as viruses, pollen, bacteria, smoke, dust, animal dander as well as other allergens.  Once this occurs the particles cling to a metal collector or the particles to fall out of the air.

9.      House Plants: All plants absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen (O₂), but some plants will effectively absorb one or more other unwanted gasses such as: benzene, formaldehyde and trichloroethylene.  Another benefit of having houseplants is that they help to humidify the air in your house.  Some of the best plants at cleaning the air in your house are: English Ivy; Spider Plant; Golden Pothos or Devil’s Ivy; Peace Lily; Chinese Evergreen; Bamboo Palm or Reed Palm; Snake Plant or Mother-in-Law’s Tongue; Heartleaf, Selloum, and Elephant Ear Philodendron; Red-edged, Cornstalk, Janet Craig, and Warneck Dracaena; Weeping Fig; Gerbera Daisy or Barberton Daisy; Pot Mum or Florist’s Chrysanthemum; and Rubber Plant.  Get out your green thumb and breathe a little easier.

10. Suck it up: Purchase a quality vacuum cleaner, one with cyclone cleaning and a washable HEPA filter.  Using it frequently will help to eliminate many of the contaminants that collect all over your house and are stirred up in a number of ways.

Every one of the above strategies will help to improve the indoor air quality in your home, but each works on different contaminants and they should be used in combination in order to clean all types of contaminants from the air in your house.

Dan Bossenbroek

If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, you might be interested in a new non-toxic cleaning product that lasts for years, is effective on any virtually surface, and contains absolutely no chemicals. Plus, this new miracle cleaning cloth cleans streak free, lint free, dust free, and spot free – guaranteed!

Most traditional cleaning products contain a variety of potentially harmful chemicals, most of which don’t have to be listed on the product labels. Many products contain phthalates and other chemical compounds chemicals that can harm the nerves, breathing, and reproductive organs of humans, household pets, and wildlife.

The ultimate cleaning cloth avoids these dangers. It is made from macrofiber, the next generation of microfiber. This amazing cloth makes it possible to have a clean home without using any cleaning products. That’s right, no cleaning products at all! That means no chemicals, no fragrances, no dyes, and no half-empty bottles lying around. All you need is a macrofiber cloth and water.

This miracle cleaning method-macrofiber cloth and water-works on all household surfaces, including windows, mirrors, glass, ceramic tiles, stainless steel kitchen appliances, bathroom fixtures, and counter tops. Plus you can use it to clean your vehicle’s body, windshield, dashboard, mirrors, and chrome trim. You can also use this ultimate cleaning method on the lexan, isinglass, plastic, or fiberglass on motorcycles, off-road vehicles, snowmobiles, boats, and other outdoor sporting equipment.

To clean your house, all you have to do is wet the cloth with plain tap water, wring it out, and wipe the surfaces. With its vacuum power, the ultimate cloth removes bugs, smoke film, tar, grease, cooking residue, dust, soap scum, bacteria, etc. etc.

If it’s not enough that this 21st century cloth cleans just about everything you can imagine without streaking and without chemicals, it’s also washable and bleachable so you can use it over and over. And it’s guaranteed for years of successful use. When you use this ultimate cleaning system – just a cloth with water – you save on the cost of cleaning products and supplies, help the environment by reducing chemical use and throwaway containers, and protect your family from toxins.

Being a green consumer isn’t just about using safer products. It’s also about buying less and using fewer products. A macrofiber cleaning cloth is a one-time purchase, totally reusable. It adds neither chemicals nor waste to the environment. Macrofiber cleaning cloths help you protect your family, your health, and the environment. What could be better?

About the Author

Chris Robertson is an author of Majon International, one of the worlds MOST popular internet marketing companies. For tips/information, click here: ultimate cloth
Visit Majon’s home-improvement directory.

 

Chinese Evergreen – JustFlowers.com

____$28.59____	____$49.95___
Engelmann Direct 45LEP010296-01 Exotic Angel Plants – Pothos Golden in 4.5 LE	Philodendron Plant

If you would like to improve your indoor air quality the natural way there are some house plants that will do a much better job than others.  Some of these plants do a great better job at converting carbon dioxide to oxygen, while others help to remove harmful elements such as trichloroethylene, benzene, formaldehyde and other volitile organic compounds (VOC’s).  Some of the best plants for this are:  English Ivy, Spider plant, Devil’s ivy, Peace lily, Chinese evergreen, Bamboo palm or reed palm, Snake plant or mother-in-law’s tongue, Heartleaf philodendron, Selloum philodendron, Elephant ear philodendron, Red-edged dracaena, Cornstalk dracaena, Janet Craig dracaena, Warneck dracaena, Weeping Fig, Gerbera Daisy or Barberton daisy, Pot Mum or Florist’s Chrysanthemum, and Rubber Plant.